When a Critic Admits Limits: William Kelley on Champagne Styles
“A weakness I am conscious of is that I may not do justice to leaner, more minimalist styles of Champagne (thinking of the likes of e.g. Barrat Masson, Péhu Simonet, etc) because I find it hard to transcend my personal preference for a more vinous, muscular, gastronomic aesthetic (think the likes of old Bollinger R.D., old Krug, Ulysse Collin, Egly-Ouriet etc).”
– William Kelley
But can a Champagne critic truly be a critic if he openly admits he cannot understand entire stylistic directions outside his personal taste?
When a Critic Admits Limits: William Kelley on Champagne Styles