The Language Problem in William Kelley’s Wine Criticism
William Kelley often pauses to define the very words he uses — “gastronomic,” “pillowy,” “sapid”. Despite an Oxford education, his writing frequently requires explanation. If the critic himself struggles to make his terms transparent, how can his audience truly understand his evaluations?
This creates a paradox: Kelley may be a valuable critic for readers who share both his vocabulary and his palate, but for everyone else, his language erects a barrier. Instead of universal guidance, his reviews become tailored to a niche of like-minded enthusiasts.