In January this year I tasted the Le Coeres 2017 from Feuillat-Juillot in Strassburg. My impression was of positive surprise. Even though I appreciate the potential of the Côte Chalonnaise, I have not up until then had an a-ha moment with wines from the Montagny, the Les Coeres changed that. A big muscular chardonnay reminiscent of a village puligny were my thoughts. It was my intention to visit the winery to see if my first impression were correct. Unfortunately this has proved to be impossible due to the corona crisis.
Last week the delivery came and full of curiosity we tried a bottle on Sunday. The first impressions did not deceive, this wine is mineral driven, muscular with medium acidity, a really good chardonnay at an exceptional price point. Coeres is probably the most popular 1er Cru in the Montagny, due to there being more clay than limestone, the wines tend to be rounder and less mineral than the other premier crus of the Montagny. Still young this will wine will definetly improve with some cellaring.
With the Jura I have a love hate relationship, they are wines I want to like but often the idea of drinking them is often better than actually drinking them. The Patchwork from Tissot has always been in my eyes an overrated wine. A colleague last week, said the 2018 was the best he had tasted up until now.
Curiosity piqued my interest so I tried this wine with some cheeses from the Jura.
The first sip after pulling the cork was not very promising, an unappealing vegetable note dominated. I did not want to decant so waited a few hours and also allowed the wine to come up to temperature.
The 14% alcohol is noticable, the nose at the moment is muted, hints of mirabelles and peaches.
With time the wines appeal grows, really full bodied with an interesting sweetness counterbalanced with strong saline minerality and a subliminal touch of oxidation. In fact it is the oxidation that gives this wine its edge. Still young, I would suggest waiting a few years. This worked really well with ripe morbier, langres and tomme de savioe. We finished the wine on the night but I imagine this is a wine that would benefit from being open for a few days. This is definitly not a mainstream wine, you have to love what some would consider imperfections. More than anything else this wine needs food.
Interestingly the soils where the Patchwork grapes grow consist of 60% clay and 40% limestone.This wine is probably the complete opposite of what Macles Chardonnay represent, if there is a negative perhaps it lacks precision.