Last year we almost secured an allocation from Fabrice Dodane, fortunately or unfortunately at the last minute he changed his mind. Last week out of curiosity I had the chance to taste Saint Pierres Chadonnay and Gamay 2018 from his Le Dos d'Chat line.
Starting with the Chardonnay, on the first day a funky nose and quite complex, not really open. On the second day the wine was singing, a very rich chardonnay, exotic aromas of grapefruit and ripe pineapple, really long finish. On the third day a change for the worse, taste and smells like a calvodos without the alcohol, with time toffee/caramel notes emerge. On day two I was thinking of buying six bottles, the experience of the third day makes me wonder.
The Gamay, on the first day again a lot of funk but also very pure cherry aromas. On the palate light to medium, a very pure expression of Gamay, ripe cherries, nice acidity. On the second day the funk has disappeared, cherry aromas at the forefront but also an unpleasant vegetal element. On the third day the wine is undrinkable, no more fruit, just vegetal aromas and rotting cabbage. Perhaps I wanted to like this wine too much. The purity of expression on the first day demonstrated the quality of the harvested grapes, the development over the course of a few days was a real disappointment.
I am not an idealist when it comes to natural wines; the complexity of expression that can be achieved is something that fascinates me. Also the philosophy of working with nature instead of working against her and using as little or no chemicals at all is commendable, yet when not using sulphur results in the wine becoming undrinkable, then I wish for an element of flexibility. Having slept on the idea of buying some more bottles, I have decided to desist.