On my first visit to Burgundy, I visited a renowned caviste, who had in his portfolio the whos who of Burgundy. I asked him, when would he be receiving Ramonets wines. The answer was, I don't know. The producers priority is always the weather and working in the vineyard. Usually when the weather does not allow working outside, they deliver.
Over the last month we endured a similiar experience. We were expecting the wines of one producer at the middle of February, due to the unexpected warm period, work in the vineyard was prioritised and delivery postponed. Last week we received in one go all the allocations in one week, which we expected to receive over the course of four weeks.
The highlight is probably the new release Bereche Reserve Brut. I believe we are one of the first outside of France to receive this champagne. Our offer for Newsletter subscribers is three bottles 99,50 €. We feared Bereche intended to push the prices up but did not anticipate how how the price increases would be. The Reflet d'Antan which will be released in October/November will now cost between 120€ and 150 €. Due to the increases we did not take the La Cran, which we now would have to sell at about 90,00 €If anyone has interest, it would probably be possible to acquire some bottles. We however have their Coteaux Champenois Les Monts Fournois Millésime 2017 1er cru Ludes Blanc. Chardonnay that was bottled in 2019 and on the back label is cryptically written „Par gravité à la chèvre à deux becs.“ With some research we managed to find out what this means. The Chèvre à la bec“ is a tap with two nozzles that is attache to the bung hole in the barrel, the wine can be filled straight in to the bottle without pumping and a minimul of movement through pipes. He chardonnay is at the moment very tight and unyielding. Stylistically similiar to Coche Dury, who we know Bereche admires. The wine will need a few years to open up.
Last year we took a small allocation of the Margauxs from Chateauu Bel Air-Marquise d'Aligre.This year we have received 12 vintages spanning from 1969 to 2011. On our website there is a full description of Monsieur Boyers approach to winemaking which has not changed since his first vintage in 1947. His wines are the antithesis of what through Parkers influence Bordeaux has become. Some say he is the Rayas of Bordeaux, I personally would compare him with the likes of Mascarello, Rinaldi or Soldera. His wines are fragrant, fresh and complex. We tried the 2011 and the 1995 together. The 2011 was young but very approachable, the 2015 started to develop tertiary aromas but still retained its freshness. A producer, every wine geek should at least try once.
All good things must come to an end. Pierre Legras Idee de Voyage 2008 was our bestselling vintage champagne but is sadly now finished. Legras has now released the 2011 Idee de Voyage. 2011 is seen by many as a less than spectacuar vintage, but somehow Legras has managed to produce an extraordinary Champagne. The grapes are from Chouilly, the most northernly Grand Cru appellation in the Côtes du Blanc. The champagnes from Chouilly are mineral driven, have high acidity and can be quite tight at the onset. The 2011 is surprisingly open, the aroma spectrum is very lemony with floral aspects, this is supported with what one imagines is a chalky minerality,nice acidity and good complexity. Drink now with raw fish dishes or poached fish with lemongras or lemon based sauces or fresh goat cheese or hold for a few year and see how this champagne becomes rounder and complexer.
Our best selling champagnes this year so far are Mouzon-Lerouxs L'Atavique, Nathalie Falmets Brut Champagne and Saint Pierre Les Dames Rose and Blanc de Blancs. From the L'Atavique we still have 6 bottles, unfortunately our next allocation will arrive in the autumn. From Falmet we have obtained a further 48 bottles. Nathalie Falmet is for me a producer, who deserves far more recognition than she receives. For this reason for customers to get acquainted with her we are offering 3 bottles of her Brut for an exceptional 79,95 €. Similiarly from Saint Pierre les Dames we have also received further allocations. Having followed the development of the champagnes since their release, the Blanc de Blancs and the Rosé are now strarting to become more expressive, Bollinger without the expensive price tag. I am more than ever convinced that this producer will go far.
A new producer in our portfolio is Andre Tixier & Fils. This is a traditions house in Chigny-les-Roses close to Ludes, the same area where Bereche and Hure Freres are situated. The son Julien Tixier has recently taken over form the father, who made nice, traditional champagne but did not try to realise the full potential of his plots. Things are now changing, the winery is becoming enviromental friendly and the quality of the champagnes are improving. A number of factors are interesting for us, they use very little wood, which today in the Champagne region is rare. They hold the champagnes or quite some time on the lees, allowing the autolyse to truely have an influencing effect. They are not afraid to use dosage. As Peter Leim says, Dosage is like salt, it defines the taste of a champagne and without enough dosage the Maillard reaction cannot take place which gives champagnes its edge. Production levels are between 40000 to 60000 bottles a year meaning we can get quantitiy and being relatively unknown means the prices are exceptionally good. The Carte Perle and the Rose have high dosages and are best drunk as apperitif champagnes. The Millésime 2015 and the Les Chemins d'Amis Extra Brut have low dosages and are champagnes gastronomique, meaning they are ideal for food pairing.
Please find below our special offers. Valid until the 29th of March, delivery from the 30th onwards.
5% Discount for orders over 200,00 €
3 bottles Bereche Brut reserve 99,50 €
Coteaux Champenois Les Monts Fournois Millésime 2017 49,95 €
1 bottle each of Pur Blanc de Blancs of Essence de Rosé 49,50 €
3 bottles Champagne Brut “cuvee”, Nathalie Falmet 28,85 €
Tasting offer Andre Tixier & Fils
1 bottle each of Les Chemins d'Amis Extra Brut, Cuvée Rosé Brut, 95,00 €
Millésime 2015 and Carte Perle