I remember, when the first real pronouncements on a new burgundian vintage were made after the Grand Jours and even this was difficult due to bottle shock. Yesterday I received an email from a wine investment firm in London. They proclaimed 2019 as another vintage of the century on par with 2009 and 2005. if you wanted to invest in Burgundy, this was the vintage. On the grand crus a return on investment of 14-16% within 6 years. This statement was validated by a plethora of critics, wanting to be the first one to get the vintage right.
I have tasted a number of wines and if I am honest I am on the fence. I think what we are seeing in Burgundy is a paradigm shift. I quote from Kermit Lynch's Adventures on the wine route. Lynch quotes Henri Jayer.
"Black is not the colour of Burgundy. You must be able to see through a glass of it. The Pinot has a pretty robe, glistening and shimmering like a cats eyes, sparkling like a diamond. It is a wine that enchants with its perfume. It must be fine and elegant, which does not exclude a solid structure. For me, a perfect Pinot is an alliance between great finesse and a tannins present but not dominant."
Well in the reds the alcohol is high but due to better vineyard management there is more, in fact lots of acidity to counterpoint the richness. I don't think the reds will fit into Jayers description. I think this vintage will have appeal for a wider audience, as with 2018 it is now accessible, drinks easily and has good substance for cellaring. Is it a vintage of the century, I do not know, only time will tell.
The whites however I find better, really good balance, has the richness but not overbearing, the acidity and tension is there. Too early to talk about complexity.
My philosophy: I will buy wines in the 15 to 35 € range for myself to drink with food. For me this is the sweet spot in Burgundy. And hold back a number of Grand Crus, either to organise a tasting at some point or as an investment.