2018 Burgundy and Beaujolais; 3 wines

 

I admire those who have the confidence to define vintages in general and sweeping term and especially those who give prognosis on drinking windows. The 2018 vintage in Burgundy and Beaujolais fascinate me at the moment, yet Ihave no idea where they are going. The whites I have tasted have an energy and tension, I have not felt since 2014.

 

A recent 2018 Pernand Vergelesses „Les Boutières“ from Domaine Ardhuy caught me off my guard, despite the weather conditions, no flabbiness, no richness, very precise, mineral driven and good acidity. Dominique Lafon said 2018, due to the heat one would expect a rich vintage, due however to the abundance of the crop, there is good tension. If it had been a small harvest, the tension would not be there.

 

 

 

I have always struggled with Beaujolais; I have tended to see Gamay more in the Rhône corner rather than in the burgundian corner. Last year I had the chance to taste an older Fleurire Deduit from Bertrand. Aromatically this wine fitted the profile of an aged Nuit-Saints-George. In fact blind

 

I would never of thought of Beaujolais. The 2018 is extremely drinkable in this moment in time, dark red fruit, good depth and acidity, as time evolves this wine will evolve magnifenctly. A customer recently asked for wines under 20€ to put down for 10 years, well this is one I recommended.

 

 

 

Given the choice between Folliard, Lapierre and Thilardon, I would choose the latter. His 2018 is a unique and enigmatic wine. It has a Vosné Romanée feel, velvety fruit, lots of spice and a wieghtlessness. This type of wine is going nowhere on the Parker-Suckling-Galloni point scale. For those who appreciate subtlety in wine and are shut out price wise from Burgundies 1er and gCs, Thilardon is perhaps an interesting choice.